Striped, creped cellulose fabrics without moire effect



Aug. 19, 1952 E. WEISS ETAL 2,607,655

STRIPED, CREPED CEJLLULOSE FABRics WITHOUT MOIRE EFFECT:

Filed July 29, 1949 INVENTORS. RNST Wanss. KARI. RlscH.

wfmsv I144 74m- ATTORNEYS.

Patented Aug. 19,

2;. UNITED STATE-S PAT OFFI E v 2,607,655,16 f. f] i 7 STRIPED, 1 CREPEDCELI'J UIJOSE FABRIGSQ' 1 r I WITHOUT MOIRE EFFECT Ernst "Weissand l'Karl Risen; Wattwtl; ;-swiaer; land,-'assignors' tojHeberlein PatentCorpora qiztion; New YorklfN Y ,a corporation of'New "IIii-SWitirIahGAugust 3, 1948 '9 oi irrisi wl. s--114.5)

invention relates to a-process for pro'd1.ic-- H 1 c+d-n ingsubstantially parallel COIOI'SQ'SfiIiPBd'CIGDB" m===i like effects oncellulose-containing fabrics and to 7 products obtained therefrom.

be iis ifiii by p r hft i f1g 1: f a%:i: t??? iieii t Width a rtst v s}?t i r ng in the form of stripes and subsequently subjectof Space Petweenaidmcent shrmk'reslstant ing it to a caustic lyeitreatment whereby the$32 333?gg ijgggig f fj sg $535k?" Pi t? a s? 151 535; ifiit i siiitfiiiiii r3 figned 9 g g r t g i 1? 6-: may be obtained by printingthe lye on the fabric-: W 3 6 W1 9 S gg p in the form of stripes. Inboth cases, an even 9 6 space 6 9 Jacen 5 crepe-like curling of thefabricllsurface is obgri gg :21 g fhzl ggagi 27hr;glvtlidtinogwiheszuicfiogd I tained. It has.alsoebeenaproposed-, tocombine 1.

" i I such shrinkin efiects with 'color printing. Printg -ii f i f fi it- 1 ing of striped patterns with which the stripe-like a t d shrunkareas .are parallel, frequently produces t i l g. e fii WeenJacenundesirablefelfects namely, moir' effects, giving 5 mm rislistgnnpes 7 T wmay be expressed rise to complaints/in; the trade. a by t lw im r lThepprincipal object. of the present invention, 0 I I V c=diaccordingly, is to produce such substantially par..-

c+d allel, colored." stripe and crepe-like effectswhile IV Y iavoidingthe objectionable moir effect. V 4

The inventionaccordinglyconsists ofthe' novel; W ere a is the width; ofacolored r p r' the" productsas well as thenovel processes andlste'p's pe w -a c co d p their? of Ipro'cesses;according to which'such products 7Width a non-shrinkable i i t are;manufacturedfithe specific-embodimentsof P W P a e non-Shrinkable f l E which are described hereinafter by Wayof ex- 15 y n 6 r e I ample and in accordance with which we now s h kfabric'in theiusuarlimanrii prefer to practice the invention ner, 'a iSpIOduCed- Whi'Ch dOeSFIIOt" It has been discovered in accordance withour h hs-t i -"5 e 1 invention that the moir effect can be eliminatedThe accompanying drawingsga're intended 0' by adjusting t t of t coloredstripes, the show the results of processes operating-inaccord-i,distance therebetween, and the width of anceiwith'theLvariant-of theinvention re'lati'ng shrunk and unshrunk areas. 1705 e q IlS i t 'g lgure- 1) a d 'the We have found in accordancegwith our invene u m n s i.accopdancel tion that the objectionable effects "referred to withthis-"Variant To-f: theiinvetlbiontaeqwhich may be overcome by printingaiabric with m consequently produce the undes1red moire effects l allel-spacecl coloredstripes, the;fabric*containing v (Flgure f is sufficientcellulose to-produce a crepereffectwhe'n 40 these drawmgsi i treat withacaustic-shrinking agent capable j. Flgure 1 represents a h h magnifiedfragoff sh king the cellulose; and :the fabric also? ment of a colorstripe fabri intad with a resist} having:resistnfl trjpe whi hlarefresistantto v running parallel to the parallel stripes of theslirink'ag' as -*we11;,as shrinkable; stripes.;1i,The"j i s the. ia r rar s b nm e are einzacet' shrink-resistant stripes and shrinkablestripes ri cew h in t on; J l z are parallel to the colored ,stripes.The fabric Figure 2 ShOWS a similar ic wi h sharroweril' is shrunkybyapp1ying -a usti soda as a Shrink colored stripes and with a resistprinted in at: ing agent thereto. The shrinking agent is then manner sothat the moil fefiects pp removed from the fabric. The relation betweeni Referring to u e it'fwill be noted that;; the colored stripes,shrink-resistant stripes arlii so the letter a is the width of a coloredpeb the spaces between is in accordance with both h 51 396 W d h W Bnicajacentfcoloredrji of the following equations; ipes, eds; the widthofra-shrink resistant strip 3 disthe; widthgof thei space between'adjacjent I Q Q shrink resistant stripes.

55 In this figure it will :be noted that the third where. a is the widthof acolored stripe, b. is'the' space between adjacent colored stripes;-c is the i 3 stripe from the left in the figure shows crosshatching oneither side thereof. This crosshatching is intended to designate thearea referred to above and this area 0 extends all the way across thestripe mentioned. The same is true of all other stripes in both Figures1 and 2, in which a portion of the cross-hatched area appears next tothe colored stripe. In all such areas the resistant area 0 extendsacross the colored stripe. In this Figure 1 the fabric, unenlarged, hasthese dimensions: a=0.8 mm. b=1.6 mm. c=1.2 mm., and 11:24 mm. Applyingthese dimensions to the Formulas I and II given above we have thefollowing:

and

Therefore, 1E3. Where n equals 3, which is an odd integer other than 1,the resulting fabric does not show the moir effect.

In Fig. 2, (#505 mm.; e512 mm. CEOB mm., and dELO mm. Applying thesefigures to the above formulas we have:

1.0 1.2 (Ewe and Therefore, n equals 2.12 which is approximately 2,which is an even integer, and which will result in the moir efi'ect.

As Fig. 2 clearly shows, the shrink-resistant stripes in the zonesmarked A coincide at least approximately with the colored stripes,whereas in the region marked B they are in' the intervals between everytwo colored stripes. After having been shrunk, a fabric made'inaccordance with Fig. 2 shows such regions A"'and B in respect of theshrunk and non-shrunk stripes and the colored stripes and. the spacestherebetween. The alternating succession of such regions A and B is thecause of moir effects.

In comparison to Fig. 2, no regions A and B are seen in Fig. 1 wherethere is a non-shrinkable stripe in between every two colored stripesand the one succeeding partly covers the colored stripe. In this caseno, or only a slight moir effect appears.

The following are examples of our processes we now prefer to practiceit. In the first three of these examples the width of the stripes andspaces therebetween are in the relations of the equations I c a In thefourth, fifth and sixth examples the width of the stripes and spacestherebetween relate to the formulas It is to be understood that theseexamples are illustrative and that the invention is not to be restrictedthereto except as indicatedin the appended 9 m i r 4 Example 1 Ableached and mercerized light weight fabric such as cotton muslin withthreads number 80 single per inch in the warp and 82 threads numbersingle per inch in the weft is printed in a stripe pattern with a vatdyestufi as for instance, Cibanon Black (Color Index 1172), the width ofthe stripe being 0.8 mm. and the interspace between, stripes being 1.6mm. The fabric is then steamed, washed and dried under tension. Then aknown water-soluble gum reserve, for instance, gum arabic, is printed onthe fabric provided with the color print, in the form of stripes of 1.2mm. in width, spaced at 2.4 mm. running parallel to the color stripes.Then the fabric is dried and subjected to the reaction of caustic sodaof 38? B., whereby the areas not printed with the gum reserve shrink.Then the fabric is acidified with diluted sulfuric acid, washed untilneutral, and dried. The relation of the width of a stripe to be shrunkto the space of two such stripes is equal to the relation of a colorstripe space to the color stripe width. The mathematical relationship isexpressed as follows in accordance with the Formulas I and II givenabove:

and

and Y Suitable effects may also be obtained with a stripe pattern with acolor stripe width of about 1 mm. (a) and with a width between stripesof about 2 mm. '(b); (c) in'this caseequals 1.5 mm. (d) equals 3mm.Accordingly,'substituting these'figures in the above Formulas I and IIand . are 2 j-gl 5; 1 L%'3 e teem- In the "above "and, followingfexamples; the result-ing effectscan be further modified by dyeing"the'jfabricin the piece or by combining with any other'desir'ed printedpattern.

Instead' of printing gum arable on the face'ofthe fabric as a gum resistin the above Example Y 1, 'a watereinsoluble lacquer, for instance,a'nitro cellulose lacduer, can be printed on the reverse side ofthe-fabric. In so doing, this nitro-celluloselacquer is made up ofthe-concentration of 240 gms, of nitro-cellulose to 748 cc. of a mixture-of amylacetate; aethylacetate andethyl-' alcohol as a solvent and-isapplied in a well known manner. The stripes of this lacquer on the backof the fabric occupy exactly the same position'as the stripes of gumarabic occupy on the face of the fabric, but, of course, when suchnitro-cellulose. lacqueris applied, the gum arabic.

stripes aremmitted. 'After washing thefabric,

As starting material, a mixed light weight fabric is used, the warp ofwhich consists of alternating stripes of 6 nylon yarns 7Q denier singleand 10 cotton yarns number 80 single, whereas the weft consists entirelyof number 120 single cotton yarn. With a count of 80" threads per inchin the warp and '72 threads per'inch in' the weft, the width of thestripes, formed by Violet {Ra (0610i- Index 1104) Thereafter" cellulose'nitrate lacquer is printed in another stripe pattern, running parallelto the colored stripe pattern, on, the backside of the fabric.

After ;drying, the fabric is'shrunk with caustic g soda solution 36 B.,treated with dilutesulf uric' acid, washed until neutral and stenterdried,

The width of the color stripes and the inter-j spaces being 0.8 and1.6mm; respectively, and "the width of the lacquerprinted stripes andthe? corresponding interspaces being 1.2 and2. 4 Theresult is acrepe-like fabric with a crisp hand and a vivid play of color printedstripes without any formation of an undesired Jrnoir "effect. In thisjexarnple,

A fabric, consisting of number 70 single mixed spun yarns, containing 84per cent cottonand 16 per cent viscose spun rayon,.with 86 ends and 78picks: per inch, is bleached and stenter-dried. It is then printed in'astripeipattern with azvat".

dyestuff, as for instance vCiba'Scarle'tfi'r (Color Index; 1228). .Thewidth of the. printed stripes is 0.5;mm., the distance-between. twoprinted stripes, is 1.5.mm. After steaming andsoaping the fabric isdried, overprinted in another stripev the alternating "groups of nylonyarns and cotton yarns in the direction of the warp are 1.9 mm. and 3.2mm., respectively. This fabric is boiled and bleached and thencolor-printed in 'a stripe pattern, the stripes running parallel to thewarp; the width of the colored stripes being 1.25 mm. and the width ofthe interspace 2.1 mm. For color-printing the color stripe, pigmentprinting pastes, as represented byQthefAridyef printing colors and forinstance described in U. S. Patent 2,364,738, jareapplied After fixingof the color print, the fabric is treated for 5 minutes without any,tension in a 30. Baum causticisoda "solution, washed with hot lwater,

acidified with dilute sulfuric acid, washed with cold water untilneutral and dried on a pin stenter without applying-tension warpwise.

resultis a crepe-like fabric with a vivid play of',

the color printed stripesagainst the unprinted background and with nomoire effect. In this example, 7 g r 1,

and

Example 3 The' pattern, with a thickened 36 per cent caustic sodasolution, the width of the caustic printed stripes. and the interspacesbeing 2. mm; each, to locally shrink the fabric. Thereafter; the fabricis treated with dilute sulfuric acid in order .to

remove the caustic, thoroughly washed until neu-J. tral and dried.- Theresulting fabric shows an interesting crepon, effect with a vivid playof,

color, I v

' Example 5 A mixed light Weight fabric, the warp of Which,- consists ofalternating stripes of 9 threads each of number '70 single gray cottonyarn and '75 denier formaldehyde treated viscose rayon yarn, whereas theweft consists entirely of' number 9011' single cotton yarn, is boiledand bleached". The count of the fabric is 82 ends and 68 picks per inch;the width of the stripes formed by alternating groups of cotton andformaldehyde treated rayon yarns the warp is about 3 mm.

The formaldehyde treatment of the viscose yarn is carried out asfollows:

Skeins of filament viscose rayon yarn are, treated'for 15 minutes in anaqueous bath con-' taining per, liter: 350 grams'ofa 38. percentformaldehyde technicalsolution and 6 grams of ammonium chloride; hxcessliquor is removed by hydro'extracting, whereupon the skeins, after beingdried at 70 C. are exposed for 15 minutes to a temperature of C. Theyarn is then soaped, washed and dried.

The bleached fabric is printed with a colored pigment, as represented bythe Aridye printing colors and for instance described in U. S. Patent2,364,? 38, in a stripe pattern running parallel to the warp, the widthof the colored stripes being 1 mm, the distance between two coloredstripes being 2 mm. Finally, the fabric is shrunk with 36 B. causticsoda solution, treated with diluted sulfuric acid, washed until neutraland dried. The finished fabric shows undulated stripes formed by thegroups of viscose yarns superimposed by color printed stripes, which tormas-r gether apply to the fabric a vivid appearance Example 6 Thestarting material is a fabric, the warp of which consists of alternatingstripes of number 38 raw cotton yarn and number 38 cotton yarn which,before weaving, was boiled and treated with a hydrophobing agent such asstearam'idomethoxyinethylpyridinium chloride, whereas the filling orweft consists entirely of number 44 raw cotton yarn. The count of thisfabric is 72 ends and 78 picks per inch, and each alternating group ofraw and pre-treated yarn in the Warp consists of 9 threads each, thusforming stripes of about 3.2 mm. This fabric, after desizing, is boiledin a bath containing 3 grams per liter of soap and 1 gram of sodiumcarbonate, and if desired, is bleached in a sodium hypochlorite solutioncontaining 2 grams per liter of active chlorine. Then it is stenteredand color printed in a stripe pattern, running parallel to the warp. Thewidth of the color printed stripes and of the interspaces being 1.2 mm.and 2 mm. respectively. For color printing vat dyestuffs as described inExamples 1, 3 and 4 may be used. Finally, the fabric is padded withcaustic soda solution 36 B., laid down on a conveyor for 5.

minutes, where I it is allowed to shrink, then treated with dilutesulfuric acid, washeduntil neutral and dried. The result is a vivid playof color printed stripes on a crepe-lik fabric without any formation ofundesirable moir eifects.

What we claim is:

1. A process which comprises printing a fabric with parallel spacedcolored stripes, said fabric containing sufiicient cellulose to producea crepe effect when treated with a caustic shrinking agent capable ofshrinking the cellulose, said fabric having resistant stripes which areresistant to shrinkage, and shrinkable stripes, said shrink resistantstripes and shrinkable stripes being parallel to said colored stripes,shrinking the fabric by applying caustic soda shrinking agent theretoand removing the shrinking agent from the fabric, said colored stripes,shrink resistant stripes and the spaces therebetween being in therelation of both of the equations where a is the width of a coloredstripe, b is the space between adjacent colored stripes, c is the Widthof a shrink resistant stripe, d is the width of the space betweenadjacent shrink resistant stripes, and n is'an odd integer except 1. 2.A process which comprises printing a fabric 8 *1 withparallel spacedcolored stripes, said fabric containing sufilcient'cellulose to producea crepe effect when treated with a caustic shrinking agent capable ofshrinking the cellulose, said fabric having resistant stripes which areresistant to shrinkage, and shrinkable stripes, said shrink resistantstripes and shrinkable stripes being parallel to ,said colored stripes,shrinking the fabric by applying caustic soda shrinking agent theretoand removing the shrinking agent from the fabric, said colored stripes,shrink resistant stripes and the spaces therebetween being in therelation of both of the equations a b :270 where a is thewidth of acolored stripe, b is the space between adjacent colored stripes, c isthewidth of a shrink resistant stripe, d islthe width of. the spacebetween adjacent shrink resistant stripes, and k is any integer.

3. The process of claim 1 in which n is equal to 3.

4. The process of claim 1 in which the fabric consists ofnaturalcellulose throughout.

5. The process of claim 1 in which a waterinsoluble nitro celluloselacquer resist is printed in stripes on the reverse side of the fabric.

6. The .process of claim 1 in which a reserve against caustic shrinkingagents is printed onith fabric as'the spaced shrink resistant stripes.

'7. The process of claim 2 in which a reserve against caustic shrinkingagents is printed on the fabric as the spaced shrink resistant stripes.

8. The process of claim 1 in which the fabric contains cellulose fiberas therein stated, with nylon fibers forming parallel stripes andconstituting the shrink resistant stripes.

9. The product produced by the process of claim 1.

ERNST WEISS. v KARL RISCH.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,171,513 Heberlein et a1. Aug.29, 1939 2,200,389 Finalyson et al. May 14,1940 2,319,903 .Huey et alMay 25, 1943 FOREIGN PATENTS Number 1 Country Date- 'l9,388 GreatBritain June 29, 1895 0f- 1894 r 482,181 Great Britain Mar. 24, 1938494,673 Great Britain Oct. 26, 1938

1. A PROCESS WHICH COMPRISES PRINTING A FABRIC WITH PARALLEL SPACEDCOLORED STRIPES, SAID FABRIC CONTAINING SUFFICIENT CELLULOSE TO PRODUCEA CREPE EFFECT WHEN TREATED WITH A CAUSTIC SHRINKING AGENT CAPABLE OFSHRINKING THE CELLULOSE, SAID FABRIC HAVING RESISTANT STRIPES WHICH ARERESISTANT TO SHRINKAGE, AND SHRINKABLE STRIPES, SAID SHRINK RESISTANTSTRIPES AND SHRINKABLE STRIPES BEING PARALLEL TO SAID COLORED STRIPES,SHRINKING THE FABRIC BY APPLYING CAUSTIC SODA SHRINKING AGENT THERETOAND REMOVING THE SHRINKING AGENT FROM THE FABRIC, SAID COLORED STRIPES,SHRINK RESISTANT STRIPES AND THE SPACES THEREBETWEEN BEING IN THERELATION OF BOTH OF THE EQUATIONS